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You can certainly flame polish from the 600-grit resin diamond pad without any issue at all. You'll lose some definition in the facets from the flame polishing so you'll have to see if it fits with the aesthetic you're going for in your glass.

If you're looking for a single piece, it would be easier to hand lap the cut bottle with loose grit silicon carbide (we have a video covering hand lapping on our channel).

If you're looking to do one-offs then using something like loose grit silicon carbide to hand lap the cut bottles is the more inexpensive route to take (we have a video demonstrating hand lapping on our channel). This process is meant more for large scale production.

Definitely. It all depends on where and what angle you cut the bottle.

Cerium may not work well on rocks. You should speak with Covington Engineering to see what they recommend for a final polish on the type of rock you are trying to polish.

@@hisglassworksinc I can confirm cerium works fantastic on rock slabs😁 I’ve been using it as a final polish to get a nice mirror on jaspers and agates

@@greenguy1408 Perfect!

Yes, we were tight on time to make the video when we did and I didn't have the time to remove the label.

You can color the surface with magic marker to see if you've gone far enough to get our the previous step scratches. If you use diamond disks, you can watch our video here on techniques for using diamond pads to grind. www.hisglassworks.com/coldworking-101/

Great. Thank you so much!

Typically, you just spin the MJ wheel dry. It's okay if there is still pumice on the wheel. If you need to dress the MJ wheel, you can use a diamond dresser like this piece: www.hisglassworks.com/30-grit-t-bar-diamond-dresser-for-lp-pads-and-polpur-wheels.html It will help re-shape and open the pore structure of the material. For use, you'll apply a mud consistency pumice to your glass surface and use the MJ wheel to help abrade the glass surface with the pumice. We keep a bucket of the pumice next to our lathe when working to re-apply.

Yes, the white scotchbrite is a little more neutral. The green doesn’t seem to affect the glass surface with the pumice though from my experience.

same concept applies, but you’ll want your cerium a little thicker so it doesn’t flow off the glass surface as quickly. I would slow down the rotary polisher, yes.

I always recommend eye protection, but I rarely recommend gloves while coldoworking as it makes it very difficult to "feel" what the glass is doing on the grinder and you end up breaking more pieces than if you use bare hands. While I've had pieces break before, in over 30 years of doing coldworking, I've never had a major incident from broken glass while coldworking.

Part B is more susceptible to higher heat. When you warm a mixed HXTAL there is three times more A than B in the mixture and you're only warming it in a warm water bath to thin the viscosity for filling cracks, etc. Part A can heat to up to 100 degrees F, but you don't want to do that with Part B as it will cause it to yellow.

You certainly can wear gloves, but it's not a requirement.

A lot depends on the type of glass you're looking for. From borosilicate crystal to lead crystal to float glass. Different location for different types of glass.

@@hisglassworksinc I’m probably looking for borosilicate crystal.

@@wackyvorlon Try cdgmglass.com

Thanks so much!

Glad it's helpful.

Sounds like a great idea. A little heavier to move around than float glass, but would last longer as a flat substrate.

I would typically move to two different pumice steps after this with a scotch brite pad to hand finish the glass. There are cerium impregnated hand pads that can be used to polish by hand as well. We may make a video showing the full routine.

Glad it was helpful!

We have a full video on wine bottle cutting and grinding here: ruclips.net/video/EiKJ9eSqEnY/видео.html

Farenheit, definitely. That hot in Celcius would break the glass.

vitreous enamel polishing would follow a lot of same processes shown for solid glass polising as it is just a thin layer of glass over the ceramic or porcelain. You just have to remember that the enamel is a thin layer and not to overdo any shaping or removal before polishing.

It can, but I've found that the synthetic felt works better for pumice than the LP66.

@@hisglassworksinc ok excellent thank you so much

@@dude7189 You're very welcome

The MK saw is no longer being produced as MK is out of business but any decent wet saw will work. The blade is the important thing and we use this blade for bottle cutting: www.hisglassworks.com/grinding-tools/blades/fine-cut-blades/husqvarna-superlok-glass.html The grinder is the Covington variable speed 12-inch: www.hisglassworks.com/covington-variable-speed-12-inch-flat-lap-grinder.html but you can also use the Maxi-Lap for bottles: www.hisglassworks.com/10-inch-maxi-lap-grinder-with-steel-wheel-head.html

As long as it's a silica based enamel, cerium should work on it.

Yes, a pumice step will substantially reduce polish time. This is especially true when polishing on a lathe where you have less surface contact on the glass.

@@hisglassworksinc also on a flatbed...

@@heukelummer True, just more difficult to use pumice. It will work okay with a synthetic felt pad, but it really requires either a cork pad or a Polpur MJ wheel on a flat bed to work well for pumice.

@@hisglassworksinc i use a 60cm polyurethane flatwheel and have a little conical shape,so i dont have to apply to much pressure and use a plastic water bottle with a tiny hole to apply a constant water drip.

Just updated with a new video on Pumice.

One of the pieces we used to make when we had an operating glass studio as well.

Our grinders are listed here: www.hisglassworks.com/machinery/flat-grinders/small-grinders.html

This is typically done with larger, heavier pieces to grind them, so the process would be similar. Not sure why you would bother with something so small and light though

Gotta love a shop sink. We have cleaned it since this video.

@hisglassworkssinc, I am awaiting your response, sir.

It depends on what you need to do with the glass tubes as the best options. Please email us at support at hisglassworks.com

HXTAL is not as susceptible to humidity as Flex-Tec, but it does cure best at around 68-72 degrees F with about 40% relative humidity. Part A of HXTAL can absorb moisture so it can cause issues in high humidity environments.

You can find it on our website here: www.hisglassworks.com/machinery/flat-grinders/small-grinders.html

If the 100-grit is doing most of the removal, then you'll be on that disk longer and wear the diamonds faster, yes.

We're using the Covington 12-inch flat lap grinder listed here: www.hisglassworks.com/machinery/flat-grinders/small-grinders/covington-variable-speed-12-inch-flat-lap-grinder.html

We recommend the Superlok Glass+ blade for bottle cutting: www.hisglassworks.com/grinding-tools/blades/fine-cut-blades/husqvarna-superlok-glass.html

We cast that in our shop

I would say anything over around 5mm facet size will work well with a 325-grit over the 500-grit

@@hisglassworksinc So, for a surface with a diameter smaller than 5 mm, I can directly use the 600 pad, and for a surface larger than 5 mm, I must start with the 325 pad. Have I understood correctly?

For single-layer electroplated diamonds, it would be a destructive use and significantly reduce the lifespan of the tool. This is best used on sintered diamond tools that have multiple layers of diamond on the tool.

The typical OD on the drill is 1-3/4 inch and the countersink is about 2-1/4 inch OD

The slide tray will be slightly different for each saw. I'm not even sure if MK has slide trays as we haven't been able to get saws from them for over a year and half now

You're moving to a cerium oxide step after the 325 resin diamond, correct? Are you using a felt pad or LP66? The polishing step will take much longer than the grinding steps and it's important not to use too much cerium or it behaves like a lubricant. Less is more when it comes to cerium oxide on the polishing pad.

Hello @hisglassworksinc , when I finish with the 270 grit, the surface is quite frosty. Then I use the 325 smoothing pad, but even if I repeat the process 5 times (doing the quarter turns) I can’t get a clean surface with no scratches 🤥, like you show in the video. I don’t know where is the problem. How can I remove them IYO before following the polishing process? Thank you very much.

@@user-wr4yy4iu2q You may be using too much water on the 325-grit and are hydroplaning. The resin disks require far less water than the electroplated to work. The same could be true on the 270-grit. Much less water or you can hydroplane above the diamonds on the disk surface. Try reducing the water on those two pads and see if it helps

Hello @@hisglassworksinc, I’ve tried to put less water, and I obtain better results. Unfortunately, I can’t remove all the scratches. Do you think I need another disk between the 270 electroplated disk and the 325 smoothing pad to remove the deeper scratches? Thank you very much again. 😊

@@user-wr4yy4iu2q Not typically, no. You can try a 220-grit resin diamond pad after the 270-grit electroplated and it should fix all those issues, but I generally don't see the need for those except on very larger surface areas.